Silk Island: Phnom Penh’s Tardis

If you’ve ever watched Doctor Who, you’d know that a Tardis is a time machine. Having sat through hours at my kitchen table hearing, “Exterminate! Exterminate!” or watch a phone booth fly through a psychedelic time tunnel in the opening credits, I have indirectly become well-versed in Doctor Who jargon.

A tardis is the time-traveling machine Doctor Who uses to, well, time travel. I like to think Phnom Penh has her own tardis in a way, and it goes under the guise of Silk Island.

Screen Shot 2014-05-03 at 8.57.13 AMIn Khmer is it called Koh Dach, and is north of the city on the Mekong River. A few Saturdays ago, Sean and I rented bicycles and took them over to Koh Dach for a step back in time.

IMG_0376A mere fifteen minutes outside the absolute chaos of Phnom Penh, you find dirt roads, cattle, palm trees, friendly dogs, and sleepy villages. You really feel like you’ve been transported back in time a decade or three.
IMG_0382We also found an abandoned temple complex, begging to be explored.
IMG_0383Not quite as old as Angkor Wat, but equally as beautiful.

IMG_0389All you could hear was the palm fronds swaying in the breeze, the putter of a distant motorboat, and the calling of birds.

IMG_0394Sean and I were wondering why this building grew to be so deserted. Was it during the Khmer Rouge? For such a beautiful location on the banks of the Mekong, it seems odd to have such a nice place grow so old and out of use.
IMG_0402As we cycled north on the island, we found rice paddies and farmers bent over, deep in their work, donning large hats and long sleeves to shield themselves from the sun. Like I said, you have to look long and hard to find signs of anything city-like on Koh Dach. It is a quiet paradise!

However, Silk Island is also a bit of a tourist destination for its “white sand beach” on the northern tip of the island…

SilkIslandBeachLocals love to visit the island on the weekend and rent out a little hut sitting over the water. They relax in hammocks, sip on a few beers, and have a picnic with their friends and family. It is a great concept—except that it is RIDICULOUSLY crowded. (The above picture is a panorama, which looks great when you open it in another window.) You can even rent an inner tube and float along the Mekong here. As beautiful as it was, maybe we’ll come back when it’s less busy!
IMG_0417Instead, we found a secluded hut tucked away in the trees just next to the beach. Owned by a family, they run a little restaurant on the bank of the river. With only seven or eight huts spread far apart, you can have some really nice privacy. And the food wasn’t bad! If I recall, they even had french fries. (Which Sean orders wherever he is, whatever time of day. You can’t lose a golden opportunity to get fries in SE Asia, he says.)

That’s how we spent our afternoon. You leave your shoes on the ground, spread out a blanket, and have a picnic in the hut. Here, the family brought our food to us, and we dined under the thatched roof. The shade was an oasis from the heat of the day and our sunburnt neck and forearms. Isn’t it lovely!

IMG_0430After our leisurely lunch we hopped back on the bicycles and headed back south. In the photo above, you can see the Phnom Penh skyline across the river.

IMG_0434And then we got on the ferry to go home.

Would I go back to Silk Island? Absolutely! It is a blast to pedal around the dirt roads, have a lovely lunch under the palm trees, and explore some abandoned buildings. It is a great way to spend an afternoon. And if you’re looking for a place to rent your bike, I recommend Vicious Cycle on street 144. Now you have no excuse!

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Categories: Cambodia | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

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2 thoughts on “Silk Island: Phnom Penh’s Tardis

  1. Loved the post and the DW references 😉 I have never been to PP but want to one day!

    • Hi backpackerlee! You absolutely must visit Phnom Penh. It is a magical place. Glad you enjoyed the DW references… you can thank my husband for that! It appears that you have been all OVER SE Asia from the looks of your blog. I suppose I have some reading to do! I am excited to explore your memories.

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